From ancient ritual to global spirit
The History of Mezcal
Thousands of years before the first bottle was labeled, mezcal was fire, smoke, and ceremony — the soul of Oaxaca distilled into a single sip.
Ancient Origins
Agave and the First Peoples
Long before distillation, indigenous Mesoamerican peoples revered the agave plant as a gift from the gods. Every part was used — fibers for rope and clothing, leaves for shelter, thorns as needles, and the sweet sap (aguamiel) as food and medicine. The Aztecs called it 'metl' and worshipped Mayahuel, the goddess of the agave, as a deity of fertility and nourishment.
Pulque Era
The Sacred Drink of Pulque
Before mezcal came pulque — a fermented beverage made from the sap of the maguey plant. Archaeological evidence from the Teotihuacan civilization shows pulque was consumed in ritual contexts as early as 200 BCE. It was considered sacred, reserved for priests, warriors, and the elderly. Commoners who drank it without permission faced severe punishment.
Pre-Columbian Roasting
Roasting the Piña
Indigenous communities in what is now Oaxaca and Guerrero developed the practice of roasting agave hearts (piñas) in underground pit ovens lined with hot rocks. This slow-roasting process — which could take several days — caramelized the agave's sugars and created the distinctive smoky flavor that defines mezcal to this day. The cooked agave was eaten as food long before anyone thought to distill it.
Spanish Conquest
Distillation Arrives
When Spanish conquistadors arrived in the 16th century, they brought with them the knowledge of distillation — a technology developed in the Arab world and refined in Europe. Combining this technique with the indigenous practice of roasting agave, Mexican producers created the first true mezcal. Early stills were rudimentary clay pots, and the spirit was rough and potent. The Spanish initially tried to suppress production to protect their imported wine and brandy trade.
Colonial Prohibition
Banned but Beloved
The Spanish Crown repeatedly banned mezcal production throughout the 17th century, fearing it would undercut their wine and brandy imports. But the bans were largely unenforceable in the remote mountains of Oaxaca. Clandestine palenques (distilleries) operated in secret, and mezcal became a symbol of indigenous resistance and cultural identity. The spirit survived through the ingenuity and defiance of rural communities.
Tequila Splits Off
The Birth of Tequila
In the 18th century, producers in the Jalisco region began making a version of mezcal exclusively from blue agave (Agave tequilana Weber). This regional variant — eventually named after the town of Tequila — was smoother and more consistent than traditional mezcal. The Spanish Crown granted the first commercial license to produce it in 1758. Tequila's rise would eventually overshadow mezcal for two centuries, though mezcal remained the spirit of Oaxaca.
DO Established
Mezcal Gets Official Recognition
Mexico established the Denominación de Origen (DO) for mezcal in 1994, legally defining which states and production methods could use the name. The Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (CRM) was created to oversee certification. This was a double-edged development: it protected the name internationally, but the regulatory framework initially favored industrial producers over the small artisanal maestros who had kept the tradition alive for centuries.
Artisanal Revival
The World Discovers Mezcal
The early 2000s saw a global surge of interest in craft spirits, and mezcal — with its complex flavors, ancient heritage, and artisanal production — became a darling of bartenders and spirits enthusiasts worldwide. Importers like Del Maguey's Ron Cooper began bringing single-village, single-producer mezcals to international markets, telling the stories of the maestros behind each bottle. Mezcal exports grew from a trickle to a flood.
New Categories
Artesanal and Ancestral Classifications
In 2016, Mexico updated the mezcal standard to create three official production categories: Industrial (modern equipment), Artesanal (traditional methods with some modern tools), and Ancestral (the most traditional, using clay pots and natural fermentation). This classification system was designed to protect and celebrate the most traditional producers — the maestros who had never stopped making mezcal the old way.
The Modern Era
A Spirit at a Crossroads
Today mezcal faces both triumph and tension. Global demand has brought economic opportunity to remote Oaxacan villages, but also pressure on wild agave populations and traditional practices. Sustainability, fair trade, and the protection of rare agave species have become central concerns. The best mezcal producers balance honoring ancient traditions with ensuring those traditions can survive for future generations.
The Agave Varieties
Mezcal can be made from over 30 species of agave, each with its own flavor profile, growing region, and maturation time.
Espadín
Agave angustifolia
The most common variety, accounting for ~90% of production. Versatile and approachable with notes of roasted agave, citrus, and smoke.
Tobalá
Agave potatorum
A small, wild-harvested agave from the highlands. Produces a delicate, floral spirit with tropical fruit and herbal notes.
Tepextate
Agave marmorata
One of the longest-maturing agaves. Intensely complex with green, vegetal, and mineral notes. Rare and highly prized.
Jabalí
Agave convallis
Notoriously difficult to distill — it foams violently during fermentation. Produces a wild, funky, savory spirit unlike any other.
Cuishe
Agave karwinskii
A tall, columnar agave from the Cañada region. Earthy and savory with notes of dried herbs, roasted peppers, and minerals.
Arroqueño
Agave americana var. oaxacensis
A massive agave that can weigh hundreds of pounds. Rich and complex with dark fruit, chocolate, and a long, warming finish.
How Mezcal Is Made
Traditional mezcal production is a labor of months, not days — a process unchanged for centuries.
Harvest
The maestro identifies mature agave plants — a process that can take years of observation. The piña (heart) is harvested by hand using a coa, a specialized axe-like tool. A single piña can weigh anywhere from 20 to 500 pounds.
Roasting
Piñas are slow-roasted in underground pit ovens lined with volcanic rocks and heated with wood for 3–5 days. This caramelizes the sugars and imparts the characteristic smoky flavor. The type of wood used affects the final flavor.
Milling
The roasted piñas are crushed to extract the sweet, smoky juice. Traditional producers use a tahona — a massive stone wheel pulled by a horse or mule — to grind the agave. Modern producers may use mechanical shredders.
Fermentation
The crushed agave and its juice are placed in open-air wooden vats or animal hides, where wild yeasts from the environment begin fermentation. This can take anywhere from 5 to 30 days depending on temperature and conditions.
Distillation
The fermented mash is distilled twice — first to create a low-proof 'ordinario,' then again to reach the final proof. Ancestral producers use clay pot stills; artesanal producers typically use copper or stainless steel pot stills.
Bottling
Most mezcal is bottled unaged (joven) to preserve the pure expression of the agave and terroir. Some producers age their mezcal in oak barrels (reposado or añejo), though purists argue this masks the agave's character.
Taste History in Every Sip
Every bottle of mezcal carries thousands of years of tradition. Explore our catalog to find your next discovery.
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